Litomerice to Praha: Spaced
Tuesday March 30, 2010, 70 km (43 miles) Total so far: 1,003 km (623 miles)
Finally a nice sunny day. Too bad about that headwind though. And a lack of maps has you riding along the busy highway all the way into Prague. But before all that it is time to check out this concentration camp.
Eventually you make it to town. Just in time for some pivo. A group of dutch students brought some space cake over. You try some. Then some more. Then some more. Mmmmmmm spacey.
Praha to Zvikov.: Let it snow. Let it snow. Let it snow
Friday April 2, 2010, 134 km (83 miles) Total so far: 1,137 km (706 miles)
After a couple lazy days in Prague it is time to once more hit the road. The hope was to make it to Cesky Krumlov but it looks to be a little too far.
It is a sunny albeit cold day. Soon the inevitable happens. Clouds take over the skies and it begins to.. snow. It actually snows! Momentarily. Then it just rains.
Lunch isnt had until after 90 km and 4 pm. Then it is only a short ride to Orlik castle where apparently a nice cheap hostel is found. Except it isnt. They tell you to go elsewhere. Then those people tell you know. So you just keep riding. So fuck you Lonely Planet.
There is another castle just to the south. Zvikov Castle. Apparently there are a few houses that rent out rooms. Except you cant find any. On the way out of town you spot the cyclista sign and try 1 last time. Victory is found.
Zikov to Cesky Krumlov: Time for a hiatus
Saturday April 3, 2010, 107 km (66 miles) Total so far: 1,244 km (773 miles)
A tour of Zikov castle is worth the time and money. Guess who is the first guest of the year? That is right. Yours truly. Then it is off on the road once more. Pisek is a pretty town with an old stone bridge and cathedral. Not to mention all the pretty buildings in the square. Prachatice, further on also has a pretty square but by the time you arrive it is already 4.
The legs ache. Even the smallest of hills becomes too much work. The muscles need some relaxing time. And as soon as Cesky Krumlov arrives they will get it too.
At last the most beautiful of medieval villages comes to view. Time for a few days hiatus.
Cesky Krumlov to Jindrichuv Hradec.: De ja vu
Thursday April 8, 2010, 96 km (60 miles) Total so far: 1,340 km (833 miles)
It was a nice little hiatus as it was but as always the road ahead beckons. A late start followed by a tour of a nearby gothic monastery has you already behind the ball. Getting lost immediately after also does not help.
Trebon is a pretty little town with a pretty little square. But with just a few short hours of daylight left it is time to move on and to Jindrichuv Hradec, tonights accommodation. Hey, youve been here before. Yews, this all looks somewhat familiar. So why not stay once more at the same hotel then? Sure, why not.
To Znojmo.: Hello pretty bunkers
Friday April 9, 2010, 116 km (72 miles) Total so far: 1,456 km (905 miles)
Slavonice, the first town of note, is quite pretty but unfortunately anything of note is closed for winter. Bike routes take you on minor roads making for a pleasant ride. So close to the Austrian border, many bunkers are found along the way.
You see a castle. It is pretty and all that but of course you are too late for a tour. It is a good thing you approach from the South. The long climb up would have been heartbreaking otherwise. A couple other castle ruins are found on route.
Znojmo looks interesting. A hostel is found and surprise surprise the only customer there is you. How do they even make money doing this???
Znojmo to Bratislava.: Hello Austria. Hello Slovakia
Sunday April 11, 2010, 170 km (106 miles) Total so far: 1,626 km (1,010 miles)
Znojmo is quite pleasant. But after a tour of the underground tunnels (as distinct from the above ground 1s) it is time to get going. It is already after 11 but with a head wind speed is maintained throughout the day. The plan was to head to Vienna. But the fuckers in the hostel wont take your reservation. You need a credit card they say. Easy No credit card though. So you just give the details of your expired card. They only use it if you dont turn up. So after 3 days of this Sorry. No room for you. Fuckers.
So you just go to Bratislava instead. There are none of those all so useful maps in Austria. So you just head in a South Easterly direction and hope for the best.
After being in Austria a bit too long it is time to cross the border into Slovakia. How? You head north against the wind, then south. At last you come to March where a ferry awaits. And waits. And waits. Why isnt the fucker coming over to pick you up? Hello?
You move on. It will be dark enough as it is. Thanks for the unnecessary wait though. So you arrive in Bratislava. Finally. And get to the hostel. Sorry. We are full. Fuckers. There are some other hostels nearby though and if you do happen to luck out you can pitch the tent in the backyard of the 1st place. Did you mention yet that it is 8 degrees outside?
Bratislava to Komarno.: Why hostel?
Monday April 12, 2010, 118 km (73 miles) Total so far: 1,744 km (1,084 miles)
124 Bratislava to Komarno. 118 km
After a shite couple nights in a hostel being woken up all through out the night by drunken douchebags it is certainly time to leave this place. And what wonderful weather to accompany you along the way. Rain
Thats right, it rains. All day. Without letting up. Lucky you. The ride is quite nice up beside the river. You overtake some sort of ferry. The river on the left is a couple meters below but the land on the right is much further below the water line. Now that looks ominous. Soon however you find the damn and the lock. The water downstream is sever meters lower. Ahhh.
Crossing over the bike trail loses the pavement. Speed drops as you ride on gravel. Good fortune, a sign says just 42 km to go, is immediately followed by bad, flat tire.
At last Komarno is found and none too soon. Pensions here are expensive though. A relatively cheap room is found.
Komarno to Budapesti: How to get to Ukraine?
Tuesday April 13, 2010, 134 km (83 miles) Total so far: 1,878 km (1,167 miles)
From Komarno it is over the bridge and welcome to home of the Magyars. Important interneting trying to sort out the invitation letter for the Ukraine visa has you wasting an hour or so. You need to transfer some money over for the visa but there arent enough spaces in the boxes provided over the internet. So walk into a bank stupid. So you do. Transfer, no problem. But only if you have an account. Fuck.
The day countiey. Apparently day. Wet. It rains the whole day. Apparently the Danube bike trail follows the Danube river but for most of the way there is no bike trail. Just a busy road with lots of trucks. It probably would have been better to just ride the direct route straight to Budapest then. Or stay North of the river contrary to the signs.
Part of the signed route has you on a ferry crossing but although there is a ferry it doesnt seem to be doing any crossing. Another time waster. Coming in to Budapest it is already night. The inevitable happens. Bam. A flat. Not so nice.
Part of the signed route has you on a ferry crossing but although there is a ferry it doesnt seem to be doing any crossing. Another time waster. Coming in to Budapest it is already night. The inevitable happens. Bam. A flat. Not so nice.
Finaly the hostel is found. Yay Somehow everything is put into the lift and hauled up 4 flights of stairs. But somehow something sometime abouts went wrong. A big gash in the side of the tire is found. Ruined. Destroyed. Tomorrows job.
Budapesti days.: Your first nappy. Congratulations
Saturday April 24, 2010, 76 km (47 miles) Total so far: 1,954 km (1,214 miles)
To spend almost 2 weeks in the 1 place 1 would think a girl was involved. Alas no, not here. Meeting some expats you become convinced to live here. So.. 4 days was spent on trial at a nursery changing nappies and another day spent at another hostel for a job from May, neither of which you will probably take.
Budapesti to Harta.: First camping day
Sunday April 25, 2010, 120 km (75 miles) Total so far: 2,074 km (1,289 miles)
Finally after almost 2 weeks the escape from Budapest is made. Hurray. And none too soon. The plan is to ride to Pecs in 2 days where another short hiatus ensues. The bike path follows the Danube river down. Sometimes on the left, sometimes the right, and sometimes on the island in the middle.
Being a beautiful Sunday day there are a few local cyclists about. But none have anywhere near as much luggage as you. The change in weather also marks a change in attire. Shorts and t-shirt it is. The path surface is a real mixture of dirt trails, grass, and road.
100 km down the road you arrive at Solt. Thats enough for 1 day. But there are no hotels about so it is on the road once more. Not far up the road, Harta has, apparently 3 pensions. 1 is closed and the other 2 cannot be located.
There is also meant to be a campsite on the Danube. Although no official campsite is found you are welcome to pitch the tent in front of the restaurant. And as the setting sun completes the day pork chops completes yours.
Harta to Pecs.: Meet the gypsies
Monday April 26, 2010, 160 km (99 miles) Total so far: 2,234 km (1,388 miles)
After being overcharged for last nights meal it is decided not to give these people any more of your business. Though this does entail not eating until lunch time some hours later. The bike trail has you riding on a sandy track in a head wind. This is not good.
You leave in good time but the promise of a big climb and a long day means things like a sandy track are bad news. Why would anybody place a bike route along a sandy track? But you persevere. There is a ferry crossing which would knock some 10 km off the ride but can you trust it? No. So the bridge it is.
And onto route 55. With heavy traffic and no shoulder these 15 km are not so nice. Still better Hungarian drivers than murderous Taiwanese. Turning south on the 56 traffic doesnt really lighten up but now you also have a head wind to contend with. When you eventually get on the 57 the wind changes into a tail however bicycles are not allowed. No problem. There is a separate bike path. Excellent. For about 2 km anyway. Then. Nothing.
So it is back on the road it is despite the legality of it all. Very soon the freeway appears but not only does the traffic not lighten up but it is also still illegal for you to ride on it. So ride on. At times a dirt track runs parallel to the road, which is fine for a little while, but mostly the road is the only option.
And hello Pecs. Hello couch surfing and a bunch of new friends. It looks like a few days in this cultural capital of Europe. There is a seminar of sorts to host on Wednesday and hopefully a train ride back to Budapesti for a job interview. Hopefully. Wait and see. Wait and see.
Pecs to Orija: Hello Croatia
Tuesday April 27, 2010, 113 km (70 miles) Total so far: 2,347 km (1,458 miles)
Pecs sure was interesting. Through couch surfing you stumbled upon a huge network of friends to waste away the days. Theres festival stuff happening on the weekend so you are compelled to stay and see that. Which is interesting and besides, you really dont need to be anywhere else. Also you kinda meet a girl so it would be nice to spend some time with her.